Peptide technology is one of the most exciting areas in skin care today. Over the past ten years, peptides
have become mainstream and should be incorporated into any serum you ae considering purchasing.
The cost has decreased in recent years.
Peptides are chains of amino acids that have a great affinity for the skin. There are many peptides
available today and the cost varies. Most peptides are formulated by pharmaceutical companies, so the
cost is not negligible. Nevertheless, they are mostly accessible today in a range of products.
Some peptides are known to mimic Botox, Like SNAP 8, or Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, thereby relaxing
wrinkles caused by the respective muscle’s movements. They interrupt the cell message to affect their
result. Some peptides are calming to the skin, like Sepicalm. Some, like Matrixyl, improve wound healing,
as discovered by the NIH. These fool the fibroblasts into producing dermal matrix materials. Some, like
Uplevity or Acetyl Hexapeptide-2, act as “anti-gravity” agents to create and organize functional elastin,
ensuring its cohesion with the dermal tissues and molecules. These strengthen the epidermal structures,
encouraging cellular turnover, reduce trans epidermal water loss, smooth deep lines and wrinkles and
greatly improve hydration in the skin.
Other peptides, like Eyeliss, dramatically improve the appearance of under eye bags due to puffiness.
Still others, such as Haloxyl, form a complex bond with bilirubin and iron in hemoglobin, trapping the
pigment that causes under eye dark circles. These improve drainage, capillary strength, are antiinflammatory and firming. Some peptides, like Dermaxyl, are patented blends of ceramides and
oligopepeptides, which improve skin barrier function and hydration.
Some peptides, such as Polylift, anchor to lipids in the skin, which forms a flexible 3D network to visibly
lift the skin in seconds. Sepicalm is a patented blend of pilot lipids, amino acids and water lily extract,
which reduces skin temperature by reducing an enzyme that increases inflammation in the skin.
Another peptide, Calmosensine, or Acetyl Dipeptide-1, along with Acetyl Ester, offer naturally occurring
sensation-altering Di-peptide, which relieves discomfort on contact as it alters our skin’s perception of
pain. This relaxes visible tension lines and wrinkles. A newer peptide, Chlorella Vulgaris E, is a peptiderich unicellular green microalgae. This strongly increases the density of the dermal matrix for additional
strength and wrinkle-fighting support. These inhibit MMPs, collagenase and elastinase, which increases
collagen, elastin and offers a 250% increase in collagen synthesis. This peptide is efficient in
detoxification of heavy metals, dioxin and gamma radiation. It boosts the immune system of green foods
along with spirulina, wheat and barley grasses.
All serums today should contain several peptides. They “play well together”. They are usually fairly easy
to formulate and the cost continues to come down. In summary, peptides provide exceptional benefits
for a variety of skin care concerns. They do not perform as well as retinol, still the gold standard in antiaging ingredients, but they offer different benefits and are a good investment. New peptides are
continuously being developed so keep abreast of ingredient technology through your esthetician. Any
good esthetician will offer a variety of products containing peptides at various price points. Some
manufacturers who lead the industry in peptide development are Osmosis and Circadia.