Peptide technology is one of the most exciting areas in skin care today. Over the past ten years peptides have become mainstream and should be incorporated into any serum you are considering purchasing. The cost has decreased dramatically over the past ten years.
Peptides are chains of amino acids that have a great affinity for the skin. There are many peptides available today and the cost varies. Most peptides are formulated by pharmaceutical companies, so the cost is not negligible. Nevertheless, they are mostly accessible today in a range of products.
Some peptides are known to mimic Botox, like SNAP-8, or Acetyl Hexapeptide-3,thereby relaxing wrinkles caused by respective movements. They interrupt the cell message to affect their result. Some peptides are calming to the skin. like Sepicalm VG. Some, like Matrixyl, improve wound healing, as discovered by the NIH. These fool the fibroblasts into producing dermal matrix materials. Some, like Uplevity or Acetyl Hexapeptide-2,act as " anti- gravity" agents to create and organize functional elastin, ensuring its cohesion with the dermal tissues and molecules. These strengthen the epidermal structures encourage cellular turnover , reduce trans epidermal water loss smooth deep lines and wrinkles and greatly improve hydration in the tissues.
Other peptides, like Eyeliss, dramatically improve the appearance of under eye bags due to puffiness. Still others, such as Haloxyl, form a complex bond with bilirubin and iron in hemoglobin,trapping the pigment that causes under eye circles. These improve drainage, capillary strength and are anti inflammation and firming. Some peptides, like Dermaxyl, are patented blends of ceramides and oligopeptides, which improve skin' barrier function and hydration.
Some peptides, such as Polylift, anchor to lipids in the skin, which form a flexible 3 D network to visibly lift the skin in seconds.Another peptide, Sepicalm, is a patented blend of pilot lipids, amino acids and water lily extract, which reduce skin temperature by reducing an enzyme that increases inflammation in the skin.
Another peptide, Calmosensine, or Acetyl Dipeptide-1, along with acetyl Ester, offer naturally occurring sensation- altering di- peptide, which relieves discomfort on contact as it alters our skin's perception of pain. This relaxes visible tension lines and wrinkles. A newer peptide, Chlorella Vulgaris E tract, is a peptide-rich unicellular green microalga. This strongly increases the density of the dermal matrix for additional strength and wrinkle- fighting support. These inhibit MMPs ( collagen axe and elastinase) which increases Collagen I, Elastin and offers a 250% increase in collagen synthesis vs. 260% increase from 5% pure ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid also increases MMPs due to inflammation. This peptide is efficient in detoxification of heavy metals, dioxin and gamma radiation. It boosts the immune system of green foods along with spiraling, wheat and barley grass.
All serums today should contain several peptides. They "play well" together. They are usually fairly easy to formulate with and cost continues to come down.
In summary, peptides provide exceptional benefits for a variety of skin care concerns. They do not perform as well as retinol, still the gold standard in anti aging ingredients, but they offer different benefits and are a good investment. New peptides are constantly being developed so keep abreast of ingredient technology through your esthetician. Any good esthetician will offer a variety of products containing peptides at various price points. Some manufacturers who lead the industry in this field are Circadia,Osmosis Beauty, Modvellum and Mark Lees.